Coming in from Moscow it was only 2 ½ hours into another bucket list city. It is actually two cities Buda and Pest being pronounced Pesht. The city is situated on both banks of the River Danube which bisects the city into west [Buda] and east [Pest]. It’s a small capital city with a population of about 2 million. Hungarian is a unique language unlike any other and the language has been used in science fiction movies as the language of aliens and extra-terrestrials.
The taxi fare from the airport to the city was €25 and I didn’t feel we were being ripped off. We stayed at the Hilton Budapest City on Vaci ut 1-3, which isn’t far from St Stephen’s Basilica and was very reasonably priced. Salaries are quite low in Hungary so if you live and earn elsewhere it can make for a very affordable stay.
Whilst checking in to the hotel I gave our home address in Mongolia [which it was] but neither my wife or I were traveling on Mongolian passports. The receptionist wasn’t all that fluent in English and my Hungarian was non-existent so the manager had to be summoned to allow us to complete check in amid much non-dispelled suspicion from the receptionist. Not sure whether that was a hangover over from communist rule where everybody suspected everybody for every reason.
The Basilica was named after the first King of Hungary, his mummified right hand is preserved inside, it’s almost 1,000 years old.
As is typical with us, as soon as we’d put our bags down we hit the pavement to grab something to eat which is always local cuisine. It was a beautiful sunny summers day and there was a little street café just across the road. Not understanding the menu we took pot luck and ended up with a sort of pancake / crepe called something like ‘palatschinte’ [which is sometimes served as a dessert] and a selection of cold smoked meats, cheeses and salad. All washed down with a cold Hungarian beer Arany Ászok, all in all a perfect start. After that we hopped on a tram to head downtown to Vaci St which is the biggest pedestrianised boulevard in the country.
It was getting towards the end of the working day and all the city business folk were leaving their offices and the street cafés and bars were thronged. We selected one at random and just sat and people watched for a while, then ambled through the town and did this a couple more times taking in the historical architecture alongside the modern day city. Some cities have not blended these well and they look [and are] completely incongruous next to each other. Not so with Budapest, this has been done artistically so the city has retained it’s classical and elegant feel. We wound our way home bar and café hopping, everywhere was welcoming and friendly with great service and good beer and wine. It was a good start.
Captain Cook Pub
I’m not quite sure how a sea Captain from Yorkshire, famous for discovering Australia ended up having a pub named after him in a landlocked country such as Hungary. But let’s not bother with the semantics. As an ex-mariner this pub was just made for me, full of nautical memorabilia and varnished to give it the feel of an old sailing ship. The service was good, the beer was great [they serve some good IPA’s] and the massive burger was excellent. It was located on Bajcsy Zsilinszsky not far from the hotel. Perfect location!
Andrássy Avenue
The following morning we left the hotel, cut down Terez Korut St and then at the Oktagon turned left onto the main drag that runs through the city. It runs for about another 1.5 – 2km long so don’t rush and wear your walking shoes. The avenue is full of designer boutiques, posh apartments and is the diplomatic quarter where many embassies are located. There are also many museums and art galleries and – sadly – a house which stands in memory of those who were tortured and murdered during WWII and in the days Hungary lived beneath the Iron Fist of Communism. The house is easily recognisable, it has a large chunk of the old Berlin Wall outside. I deliberately didn’t take a photo of this house, I don’t need a reminder of that.
Many of the buildings are decorated with carved Roman and Greek mythological characters, which, at the time the buildings were constructed was law. There are also animals and other flora carvings, all very ornate. We had to stop and browse every boutique so the short distance took us a lot longer than it would if you were going somewhere with a purpose. Our objective was the square and park at the end of the road.
The last part of the road is wide and tree lined, it reminded me of walking down the Mall in London on the approach to Buckingham Palace. At the end of the avenue lies Heroes Square, Virosliget City Park and the Szechenyi thermal swimming pools / baths. The square and entry to the park is a bit of an architectural masterpiece. There is a huge column [it must be 35-40 metres high] and atop is a huge carving of the Archangel Gabriel, in his right hand he holds a Holy Crown and in his left is a patriarchal cross. At the foot of the column are a number of men on horseback. In front of the statues is a commemorative stone to the unknown heroes killed in WWI. A bit like the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in other countries, although there is no actual body buried in this case. Behind the column at the back off the square at the entrance to the park are two huge semi-circular colonnades with various rulers and other important historical figures. Mounted atop the two colonnades are four separate statues depicting Work & Prosperity, War, Peace and Knowledge & Glory. You can see the column and statue long before you get near it.
We passed through the square and the entrance to the park gardens and immediately over the Kos Karoly Setany bridge and headed towards the thermal baths / pools in the north east corner. I didn’t know until we went there that Budapest is known as the ‘City of Spas.’ This is because beneath the city is a thermal spring bubbling away that produces a staggering +50 million litres of hot water per day and this fuels multiple hot water baths around the city.
These baths are over 100 years old and have fancy architecture and [supposedly] medicinal waters. There is one big pool where we went but there are also lap pools and whirlpools. Mineral baths are supposed to have many health benefits for illnesses and joints, muscles etc which was first discovered in Roman times. I don’t know how true any of this is but it’s a great place and a great way to spend an afternoon. Apparently there are also some proper ‘Turkish’ baths somewhere in the city where you can get a proper Turkish massage. I didn’t want to seek those out because I went to one in Istanbul and it was like paying someone to beat me up. I could have gone down the pub and got that for nothing!
The funkiest bar in Hungary – Szimpla Kert
That night we went out for a couple of beers and in the Jewish Quarter [District VII] on Kazinczy Utca [also known as the Street of Culture] and found ‘Szimpla Kert’ the most eclectic bar in Budapest. We didn’t know at the time but this is one of the No1 nightlife tourist spots in the country. Now I know why. It was Hungary’s first ‘ruin’ bar [romkocsma]. We’d never heard of that before so had someone explain it to me. Picture for a moment, Europe at the end of WWII after the nazis had bombed it back to the stone age. Then think how the Jewish Quarter would have looked once it became a ghetto again. Then years of communist rule by the soviets, which drove an exodus of residents leaving large parts of the city to fall into decay and buildings to become dilapidated.
The original pub opened a few blocks from the current location. Around 2004 a derelict area which had previously been an old factory and flats where the pub now sits was going to be demolished. The then owners decided to move the bar there because it provided more space and a better environment for what they wanted. The bar was re-opened in the previously ruined building and the culture of ruin bars was born. But this one isn’t just a bar [although it does a great job of that] it is also an open air cinema, live music, farmers markets on Sundays and an open air jam session.
As usual we got talking to some interesting characters and ended up drinking more than we planned, smoking more shisha than we planned and I have these photos and memories of what a great night it was. I’ve travelled the world for decades and drunk beer on every inhabited continent so when it comes to bars and pubs – I know my stuff. As an old Sailor I reserve the term ‘flagship’ only for things that truly deserve it. I’ve been in some great pubs and bars in my time but I would bestow the title of ‘flagship bar’ on Szimpla. The reasons for that are that the atmosphere was incomparable and unrivalled to anywhere I’ve been before. Probably anywhere you have been before as well.
The interesting artifacts, objects and people. Every nook and cranny is filled with bizarre curios and artistic items, there is graffiti [or is it art?] everywhere and for seating you have a choice of old sofas, bath tubs, a television set that looked like the first one my nana had, an old Soviet Trabant car [the only time you will EVER find me in one of those junk heaps] and your table maybe an old barrel, a pommel horse you find in high school gyms or any other manner of completely unexpected items. It was like drinking whilst being inside the lyrics of The Beatles ‘Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds’ and was like sitting inside an episode of Roald Dahls Tales of the Unexpected. I kept looking to make sure no one slipped a monkeys paw onto our table. I sometimes wondered if I was tripping on acid, then I remembered I don’t do drugs. There are separate loads of bars inside, I lost count and it became a bit of a maze in an alcohol fuelled haze. Probably a good idea to count the bars before you have a drink in every one of them. You have 5 senses and you will use them all in overdrive or possibly even overload in this place. As XTC said ‘Senses Working Overtime’.
If I went again, I would go during the day at first, explore all the floors and bars and have a mental map in my head ready for later. Trying to find your way around the first time at night after a few bevvies was tough.
A word of warning though – the toilets. Ladies take your own toilet paper – and hover. If I go in the pub again I would rather drink until my bladder is the size of a zeppelin than step foot in those khazis again. They are downstairs behind old wooden saloon style doors, you should be able to follow the smell to locate them. But apparently it’s all part of the unique experience, I’ve been in better open air shitters in the black hole of Calcutta so I don’t need to re-live experiences like that. It’s the only thing that spoiled it.
Szimpla Kert – you are captivatingly wild and creatively artistic. In summary – truly a unique and unbeatable experience!
Kert – Szimpla
Margaret Island
Whilst my wife went for her standard day of shopping and spa pampering I decide to explore the island situated in the middle of the River Danube accessed from Margit hid [hid means bridge in Hungarian]. The island is 2.5km long and 500m wide and it’s mostly covered in landscape parks and there’s an interesting mix of modern and historic on the island.
It started as a as a royal hunting reserve in the middle ages and was called the Island of Rabbits. The name was then changed to Margaret Island after the daughter of King Bela who is buried on the island.
In hindsight I should have gone there with my dearly beloved because it’s actually a really romantic place and you can see this in the many young lovers strolling hand in hand around the gardens on the island. We were having a bit of a hectic holiday and this island provides a bit of seclusion away from the hustle and bustle of the city so as I was alone, I simply revelled in the tranquility of solitude.
As you enter the island the first thing you happen upon is the Musical Fountain, this is an amazing piece of art and architecture. The pool is 35m wide and the surface area covers 1000SqM making it one of the biggest fountains in Europe. The main jet reaches heights of up to 25m and there are 150 twirling water jets spouting up to 10 metres high and it is now a UNESCO protected site. One minute the fountain is playing Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake, the next it is belting out Born To Be Wild by Steppenwolf! There are multiple playlists on the fountain which change throughout the day and night.
I walked down the eastern side of the island which is heavily wooded. I would imagine with all the trees and bushes and shrubs, when it comes to autumn I would bet the foliage turns magnificent shades of reds, yellows and bronze. At the north end of the island I crossed over to the west bank and wandered back down the riverbank path and into the middle of the island. There was a wedding taking place, and it was such a beautiful setting, now I know why that young couple picked it. Apparently weddings on the island are quite popular.
On the west bank at the southern end there is a large swimming pool and sports centre where you can hire sports kit. I had no interest in any form of sport whilst on holiday so I gave it a miss. You can rent bikes and electric cars and go one Segway tours as well. As I covered at least 5km it’s worth thinking about. If you’ve got small kids with you then you could explore the island on a small train.
So in summary, Margaret Island attractions include a musical fountain, gardens parks and playgrounds, medieval ruins, swimming pools and a water park, and open air theatre and cinema. Next time I go I would probably allocate a full day to explore the island – and this time – I would make sure I had someone to stroll hand in hand with.
After Margaret Island I headed off to the Hungarian Parliament building.
The parliament building pronounced ‘orsaghaz’ is a very impressive neo-Gothic style building on the eastern bank of the Danube in the Pest half of the city.
The famous chain bridge was less than 1km south of Parliament so no more than a 5 – 10 minute walk from the hotel.
Central Market Hall – Indoor Markets
There are a number of indoor markets in Budapest, which, like most markets – sell everything. We went to the biggest and the oldest [also known as ‘Grand’ Market] and there is probably nothing it doesn’t sell somewhere fresh food, clothes, furniture, ornaments – it’s got the lot. I acquired the obligatory fridge magnet and little souvenir for my bar. There was also a food court and a proper food court that only sold local foods, which was really cheap and you just Gatecrash a table if already occupied. It’s located at Vamhaz Korut 1-3.
Váci Utca
This is the probably the best known of all the main streets in the city. The two halves are quite different, on the north side of the Elizabeth bridge road there are plenty of shops and restaurants targeting the tourist market [which we were] so we didn’t feel out of place. South of the Elizabeth Bridge / Szabad Sajto Ut is much quieter and has a more historical air about it. We found a great restaurant here named Urban Betyár with a museum downstairs, depicting life and dress / costume(s) in Hungary throughout the ages. Fascinating. It also had an electronic map of outlaws from around the world featuring [amongst hundreds] Ned Kelly of Australia and Dick Turpin and Robin Hood of England. I never worked out the significance of this.
On our final day we undertook the organised guide tour of parts of the city. The tour started just south of Chain Bridge which we crossed into the ‘Buda’ west half of the city. You go up a steep hill and then try and find somewhere to park. Or more accurately, you get out and leave that to the driver to sort out. There are dozens of tourist shops flogging all the usual tat here. Across the road is the amazing beautiful Church of our lady [Matthias Church]. Also called The Church of the Assumption of the Buda Castle, andthe Coronation Church of Buda – take your pick.
It’s very gothic style, originally built in the 14th century and the building is richly decorated with figures of significance in Hungarian history such as saints and national heroes depicted around the walls. The last two kings of Hungary had their coronations here and the church is still used for state ceremonies and some religious ceremonies.
The Fisherman Bastion is adjacent to the church. It is one of the best known tourist locations in Budapest because from it’s terraces overlooking the Danube it has the most panoramic views in the entire city. Along the central façade are seven steeply pointed stone towers representing the seven Chiefs who formed the Kingdom on Hungary in the 9th century.
St Stephen 1st [the bloke on the horse, not in the shorts]
Around these buildings you can still see pockmarks in the wall which are actually bullets from WWII. The tourist guides can tell you courageous yet sad stories about Hungarian resistance fighters barricading themselves into basements fighting to literal death rather than be captured, tortured and executed by the occupying nazi forces. I never dwell on these stories.
During the guided tour the guide asked where we all came from. We told him we were currently residing in Mongolia and he was fascinated – and there was a reason why.
The Mongol Invasion 1241-42.
Apparently everything was going well in the Hungary of the 13th century and all was peaceful until the Mongols invaded. I’ve heard this story many times before with the country and people interchangeable. When the Mongols invaded they burned crops, killed the livestock and destroyed towns and villages. International diplomacy was still some way off. Budapest was still two cities and they conquered Buda and destroyed Pest and King Bela fled into exile. The Mongols left after the death of their leader Ogedei Khan and King Bela returned to commence rebuilding the devastated Hungary. It was he who first started the fortress and castles which we were currently experiencing.
The Citadel
Built in the 1850’s The Citadel occupies probably the most strategic, and certainly the most stunning panoramic views of the entire city and the Danube.
It is situated at the peak of Gellert Hill and was originally a military lookout / stronghold. The whole building in in a U-shape and is about 60 meters wide and over 200 metres long, there are places for 60 cannons.
There are a few food, drink and souvenir stalls at the top but they are cheap and tacky and you’ll get what you pay for, take a bottle of water with you. You can walk up to the top if you want but I’ve done my share of that kind of walking and climbing, we got the tourist guide to take us right to the top car park. It was a hot day in mid-summer and I had no intention of getting dehydrated and going down with heat exhaustion.
Prior to the Citadel being constructed Gellert Hill was covered with vineyards and woods. Realising the strategic military value of the hill and the views it provided, the Citadel was built by the Austrians or a more accurate description would be the Austrians forced Hungarian labourers to do it as a warning to dissidents who were agitating for independence from the empire. The guide imparted some fairly barbaric stories of things that had gone on here from when it was first built, to the nazi occupation in WWII, then the soviet / communist occupation, which is why many Hungarians hated the building and everything it stood for and once symbolised. However now, as well as being a great tourist attraction it is also equally used by locals. There were many young couples hand-in-hand and it made me think of Fats Domino and “I found my thrill – on Blueberry Hill”.
In addition to the Citadel fortress you can see the Hungarian ‘Statue of Liberty’. It consists of a 26 metre pedestal with a 14 metre high statue of a woman holding up a palm leaf over her head.
There was an original inscription which was [to the effect] ‘in memory of the heroic soviet liberating forces’ which freed the city from the nazis in 1945 written in Hungarian and Russian. However, after the soviet invasion of Hungary in 1956 and the subsequent occupation under communism feelings towards the soviets diminished. After the fall of communism and the country reverted to democracy the inscription was changed [to the effect] ‘in memory of all those who sacrificed their lives for the freedom and independence of Hungary.’ The Russian translation was removed completely.
Leaving
In the taxi on the way to the station we reflected on the stay and agreed it was quite unexpectedly a bit of a romantic location with all the elegant restaurants, modern boulevards, cozy little street cafés, unique thermal baths in a city centre but with a modern vibrant feel. It was truly unique, Budapest – you did not disappoint.
We arrived at Nyugati train station at the junction of Vaci ut and Terez korut and located our train. It wasn’t one of those trains were you step from the platform to the carriage but one were you climb up the ladder at the side – and haul you two 20kg suitcases up after you.
Right on time the train whistled and drew slowly out of the station into the Hungarian countryside and clunked and clacked it’s way 3 hours north west. It was a relaxing way to travel with no airports, no security and for the sake of 200km’s was by far the easiest and at €15 the cheapest way.
Next stop – Bratislava, Czech Republic.